Scorpion Evo 3

Scorpion Evo 3 from ASG
"Made in Denmark" The first thing that springs to mind when I hear that this gun is made in my contry Denmark. Is that this must be High Quality! And you know what it is. Danish quality and engineering. This is not a review, but I realy can't help my self. Before we start the disassembly I realy have to thank ASG for some fine engineering and god build quality.
But be careful, the spring guide often breaks especialy if you put in strong springs! And the peaces may end up in the gearbox breaking the gears.

Now let's take it appart. The first thing to doo is to remove the front where the battery compartment is. As you should already know this is done by turning the flame hider counter clockwise to take it off. Behind that there is a locking "bolt" that also comes off by turning counter clockwise.

Now you can pull out the front, but when you doo be carefull you don't loose the cocking handle that is also used to open the hop-up protection plate. And note that there are a spring behing the cocking handle.

With the front off you should also take the folding stock off. This is done by pressing in the spring guide from the back. Fold the stock and use a 6mm Hex key to press it in. DON'T turn it !!! It looks like the back of a screw but it's NOT. With the spring guide pushed in press up on the stock to get it off.

Now you can take out the spring guide and spring. The spring guide you presssed in to get the stock off, is again presed in. This time a little futher in. Then using the hex key turn the spring guide counter clockwise one quater turn. Don't use to much force or you risk breaking the spring guide locating pins off! Be aware that the spring is pushing directly on the spring guide so theres quite allot of force pressing back on the guide.

With the spring out of the way it's time to take out the motor. First remove the 2 screws from the motor plate in the buttom of the handle. The screws use a 2 mm hex key to unscred. The motor plade is some times a but hard to remove because it's in there tight. But if the 2 screws are off you can be sure nothing is holding it in place, so just use some force.

Disconnect the motor wires, by pulling them. A small flad head screw driver can be used to make it easyer to push them off. Now you can pull out the motor it self. Be aware that it can also be fit in there quite hard. And also be aware that it is highly magnetic with strong magnets, so don't put it near any metal.

Inside the handle (Where the motor was) there are 4 screws holding the grip in place. On the side of the handle theres 2 screws also holding the handle in place. With thease gone you should be able to take off the handle. The wires are a bit tricky to get out but it's just a matter of orienting them the right way.

Infront of the trigger theres a hole in the trigger guard, put a hex key in that hole and remove the small hex screw thats in there.

On the fromt of the gun, just below the barrel on the side theres a small screw holding a locking pin in place. Remove the screw and push the pin through the gun and out the other side.

Now the mag-well is clear to be pulled off, but be carefull because on the side of the gun the "bolt release" pressing handle is loose also and theres a small spring that may get lost if you are not carefull.

On the back of the gun theres a single screw, and on the top of the gun theres a hole row of screws that needs to be removed, and also on the front theres a single screw. All thease screws holds the 2 half upper body parts together around the gearbox. When they are all taken off the 2 halfs comes appart. Be carefull because the hopup unit guard metal plade sit's loose inside with a spring on it. What I doo is I press down on the hopup guard plade while taking the plastic body appart. Then I release the spring tension before I go on.

The gearbox barrel, inner barel and hou up chaimber, all sit's loose inside the boddy shell. So they are pretty easy to take out.

As I said in the begining the gun is well build, and it comes with a mosfet with selector options beeing: Single, 3 Burst, or Full Auto. So no need to make a mosfet your self. Shimming is not alwasy the best from the factory. So re shimming is reccomended if you know what you are dooing. The only real problem out of the box is that if you are to violent when changing springs the spring guide breaks.

So all in all a good gun that needs minimal tech work as standard. Upgrade wise theres som good options: The gears can't take more than 120m (MAX 130m spring) so if you want more power upgrade the gears. The inner barrel could be changed for a better one. And the piston is not the best out there, get a full metal teeth one instead.

Watch how to disassemble it on the youtube channel
If you are more to seeing a step by step guide video you can see a video description in my youtube channel.


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Airsoft Front Calculators CronoPhone Projects and tech Mods and Upgrades Disassembly FAQ & QNA Links	Scorpion Evo 3 Scorpion Evo 3 from ASG "Made in Denmark" The first thing that springs to mind when I hear that this gun is made in my contry Denmark. Is that this must be High Quality! And you know what it is. Danish quality and engineering. This is not a review, but I realy can't help my self. Before we start the disassembly I realy have to thank ASG for some fine engineering and god build quality. But be careful, the spring guide often breaks especialy if you put in strong springs! And the peaces may end up in the gearbox breaking the gears. Now let's take it appart. The first thing to doo is to remove the front where the battery compartment is. As you should already know this is done by turning the flame hider counter clockwise to take it off. Behind that there is a locking "bolt" that also comes off by turning counter clockwise. Now you can pull out the front, but when you doo be carefull you don't loose the cocking handle that is also used to open the hop-up protection plate. And note that there are a spring behing the cocking handle. With the front off you should also take the folding stock off. This is done by pressing in the spring guide from the back. Fold the stock and use a 6mm Hex key to press it in. DON'T turn it !!! It looks like the back of a screw but it's NOT. With the spring guide pushed in press up on the stock to get it off. Now you can take out the spring guide and spring. The spring guide you presssed in to get the stock off, is again presed in. This time a little futher in. Then using the hex key turn the spring guide counter clockwise one quater turn. Don't use to much force or you risk breaking the spring guide locating pins off! Be aware that the spring is pushing directly on the spring guide so theres quite allot of force pressing back on the guide. With the spring out of the way it's time to take out the motor. First remove the 2 screws from the motor plate in the buttom of the handle. The screws use a 2 mm hex key to unscred. The motor plade is some times a but hard to remove because it's in there tight. But if the 2 screws are off you can be sure nothing is holding it in place, so just use some force. Disconnect the motor wires, by pulling them. A small flad head screw driver can be used to make it easyer to push them off. Now you can pull out the motor it self. Be aware that it can also be fit in there quite hard. And also be aware that it is highly magnetic with strong magnets, so don't put it near any metal. Inside the handle (Where the motor was) there are 4 screws holding the grip in place. On the side of the handle theres 2 screws also holding the handle in place. With thease gone you should be able to take off the handle. The wires are a bit tricky to get out but it's just a matter of orienting them the right way. Infront of the trigger theres a hole in the trigger guard, put a hex key in that hole and remove the small hex screw thats in there. On the fromt of the gun, just below the barrel on the side theres a small screw holding a locking pin in place. Remove the screw and push the pin through the gun and out the other side. Now the mag-well is clear to be pulled off, but be carefull because on the side of the gun the "bolt release" pressing handle is loose also and theres a small spring that may get lost if you are not carefull. On the back of the gun theres a single screw, and on the top of the gun theres a hole row of screws that needs to be removed, and also on the front theres a single screw. All thease screws holds the 2 half upper body parts together around the gearbox. When they are all taken off the 2 halfs comes appart. Be carefull because the hopup unit guard metal plade sit's loose inside with a spring on it. What I doo is I press down on the hopup guard plade while taking the plastic body appart. Then I release the spring tension before I go on. The gearbox barrel, inner barel and hou up chaimber, all sit's loose inside the boddy shell. So they are pretty easy to take out. As I said in the begining the gun is well build, and it comes with a mosfet with selector options beeing: Single, 3 Burst, or Full Auto. So no need to make a mosfet your self. Shimming is not alwasy the best from the factory. So re shimming is reccomended if you know what you are dooing. The only real problem out of the box is that if you are to violent when changing springs the spring guide breaks. So all in all a good gun that needs minimal tech work as standard. Upgrade wise theres som good options: The gears can't take more than 120m (MAX 130m spring) so if you want more power upgrade the gears. The inner barrel could be changed for a better one. And the piston is not the best out there, get a full metal teeth one instead. Watch how to disassemble it on the youtube channel If you are more to seeing a step by step guide video you can see a video description in my youtube channel.
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